Week sixteen:  Denmark/Albany/Bremer Bay

Two humpbacks frolicking in King George Sound, Albany.



The holy grail:  seeing a whale breaching! This one is at Bremer Bay.

 Last week I mentioned that we are hoping to see some whales in the south...as you can see from the pics above, our wish came true!  We have seen humpback whales while on a whale watching tour, a Southern Right Whale and her calf in Bremer Bay at Town beach and then two separate sightings of Humpbacks at play, fairly close to shore at other spots around Bremer Bay.  From what we have been told, there is plenty of whale activity to be seen as we cross the Nullarbor, too.  So the whale drought will be well and truly broken!

Warning:  There are LOTS of photos in this week's blog post as this area is just so darn beautiful.  The cameras have been busy!!

We began our sixteenth (!!!) week on the road taking the very scenic drive from Busselton down to Denmark.  Though we love the coast, it was nice for a change to drive through green, pastoral areas complete with rolling hills.  We even managed to be driving through Nannup on the eve of it's Flower Festival.  Gorgeous! 

 

Before we landed in Denmark, we stopped at Dinosaur World.  This was greatly anticipated by the boys and the dinosaur skeletons were pretty impressive.  They also had reptile and bird displays, and kangaroos to feed.  The old hip pocket takes a hiding from going to these sorts of places, but I guess you have to do these things. 



An impressed Charlie in front of a replica T-Rex skeleton. 
They are bought from a museum in the U.S.





Triceratops meets Mattasuarus.

 We were very impressed on arrival at Ocean Beach Caravan Park in Denmark - a park to rival the famous Mandalay!  We were not surprised, though, to see that apart from one other van we were the only ones there.  It is the off season.  Apparently it will be packed to the rafters over Summer though, with about 1800 people there over Christmas!  Denmark is a great spot, with beautiful beaches, a gorgeous village area with great shops, beautiful rivers and vineyards around...I could go on.  It  has become my new favourite spot (along with Cable Beach and Kalbarri). We could definately have spent more time here, but we are keen to dedicate September to touring South Australia so must press on.   

Litoria moorei (Western Green and golden bell frog), one of the many
 animals we shared the caravan park with.  Thanks to my good friend Bethlea
for helping me find out it's name :)  There was also a mob of kangaroos,
complete with joey in pouch, galahs, kookaburras, numerous parrots...

The boys on their new favourite thing: a jumping pillow.  Matt now asks
before we check in to a new park:  is there a jumping pillow?

We based ourselves in Denmark and explored the area: Tony photographing the famous Green's Pool and Elephant Rocks near Denmark, checking out the Valley of the Giants tree top walk near Walpole, going on a whale watching cruise in Albany, visiting the Wind farm at Albany (free, and very good) and Whale World, also in Albany (NOT free and a bit overpriced to be honest).  There was quite a bit of driving in all this, so thank goodness the scenery was beautiful!





Inside one of the amazing Tingle Trees in the
Valley of the Giants.







Grandma Tingle.  Matt was convinced this was a monster.
Some quick talking was required to avoid nightmares!





Our nearly 5 year old has some growing to do yet!



On the fabulous catamaran touring around King George Sound, Albany.





Playful New Zealand fur seals. 
Thank goodness they see no threat in humans anymore.



On the cruise we got to see sardine fishermen in action.
It was quite fascinating.

And we met a couple of professional squid fishermen. 

The fascinating (and free!!) wind farm.



Beside the wind farm were amazing walks along the coastline,
with breathtaking views of the beautiful Southern Ocean. 



Whale World.  The mind boggles at the size of these beautiful creatures: 
this is the skeleton of a Pygmy Blue Whale washed up near Albany.



Probably the best bit of Whale World: the native animal exhibit up the back.



Matt steering an ex-whaling boat. 
I tried not to think too much about the examples
 of harpoons displayed on the deck.  Whale World was half
about the glory days of whaling and half about
what magnificent creatures whales are...

 Today we had a 'whale of a time' pardon my pun, driving around the tiny town of Bremer Bay checking out the gorgeous beaches (absolutely too cold to swim, unfortunately) and seeing whales on three separate occasions.  We feel very lucky!  



Tony watching the Southern Right whale and her calf...
very hard to get a good photo of them though. 
How about that beautiful water???  And this was a rainy morning!





The boys on Whale Watch.



Back Beach, late afternoon.  The last whale
we saw was just off this beach to the right.



We climbed up these rocks to get a better look at the second whale we saw.
My heart was in my mouth the whole time, though, thanks to No-Fears Matt!

 

Tomorrow we have a big drive, to Esperance, where Charlie will have his fifth birthday on Wednesday.  We will spend at least four days here, followed by Kalgoorlie...then it will be time to head across the Nullarbor.  Our time in awesome Western Australia is drawing to a close. 

Week fifteen:  Busselton/Dunsborough/Margaret River region

Welcome to Winter in the South-West...cold, windy and wet!  We have had a very wet past few days, but have managed to see a few sights in the area.  Unfortunately it means we have missed experiencing the  revamped Busselton Jetty train ride and underwater observatory, but as we always say - that just gives us another reason to come back!

We arrived Friday afternoon at the amazing Mandalay Caravan Park, which we had been told by many, many people not to miss...I think the words 'best caravan park in Australia' had been mentioned!  We were not disappointed:  amazing ameneties (even a courtesy blow dryer, and heated floor tiles in the shower area!), lovely level sites with nice flat shadecloth slab floor, and plenty to do for the kids with a jumping pillow, several playgrounds, a games room and an indoor heated pool. We enjoyed the facilities in what we knew was going to be the last of the good weather...as Saturday was to bring wind and rain.

And indeed it did, but as it didn't seem to be phasing the locals we determined to get out and about.  We headed for Dunsborough and Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, with a stop on the way at the gorgeous Dunsborough shops area.   We had been here BC (Before Children) and stopped in once again at the Christian Fletcher Gallery - such inspirational landscapes!  We parked at the beach and admired a very brave kite surfer...well, we say brave but to him it was probably perfect weather for it!

Then it was on to the Lighthouse and a tour.  The boys have seen quite a few lighthouses in our travels so far, so it was great to have the opportunity to actually go up into one and stand at the top.  Standing was quite challenging as it was quite windy.  We were hoping to spot some whales but it was way too choppy out there.  Hopefully we will see some further south. 



Blown away at the top of Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse


We continued to explore the Dunsborough area then headed back to the Caravan Park for drinks and great company with the gorgeous young family next door:  Aaron, Hayley and the cute as a button Oden. 
Sunday brought the best weather we would have and we headed for the Margaret River area.  First, a short drive into Yalingup to admire the beautiful coastline.  By this time Matt had fallen asleep (he had been a  bit under the weather with a cold so we felt he needed a big sleep). This made it difficult to stop at many places, so we drove around sightseeing then wound up at Cape Grace winery, which we had stopped at back in 2003.  Tony and the boys enjoyed the birds and the kid's toys while I had some delicious wine...and of course just had to buy a bottle! 

Next we felt we needed to hit some child friendly places so headed for the Margaret River Nuts and Grains Factory (very disappointing, but the boys had a quick play on the playground), then the Margaret River Chocolate Factory (fabulous for all of us!) and finally the Cheese Factory where we found some delicious yoghurt.  We then checked out Prevelly Park: another gorgeous coastline and where the Margaret River meets the ocean.  All day we had been avoiding the rain, and it was beginning to set in again so it was time to head back to Bussleton and the caravan park. 



Monday...we pretty much didn't leave the caravan.  It was so wet and windy it wasn't worth it.  So the boys enjoyed a day in with ABC Kids and Mary Poppins and we got a few inside jobs done.  I suppose we can't complain as we had perfect weather up north; and we have always said that the South-West will be covered quickly as we knew the weather would be a bit ordinary. 

Today has been much better weather and we have enjoyed touring around the Margaret River region once again.  We spent quite a bit of time in the Gracetown area - more gorgeous coastline, especially when enjoyed from the warmth of the car!  We could not get enough of watching the amazing waves.  We even saw some crazy people...sorry, surfers...having a go at those huge waves.  Incredible!

Then we headed over slightly south of Margaret River to The Berry Farm.  This was recommended by Hayley and thank you very much because it was lovely.  We enjoyed some hot drinks, milkshakes (the boys) and some yummy scones, then the boys played on the playground and we got the chance to taste some goodies.  We were particularly taken with one of their wine labels: 

which we feel beautifully personifies what we have seen so far both in the Swan Valley and here - a focus on delicious produce and wine, nestled amongst gorgeous flora and fauna.  And we do love those gorgeous blue birds!



The boys enjoyed the environment at The Berry Farm, too.

Finally, as it had been a mostly rain free day we thought we would check out the Busselton Jetty while we could.  The train and Observatory were still out of action, but Tony got a few good photos of the Jetty itself.  It is a very beautiful Jetty.  

Tomorrow we leave for Denmark, which is between Walpole and Albany.  There is plenty to do in the area so we are hoping the finer weather will continue. 

Week Fourteen:  Jurien Bay/Swan Valley & Perth

On the way from Kalbarri to Jurien Bay, we took the tourist drive through Geraldton and were pleasantly surprised as many had told us to give Geraldton a miss.  Western Australia has an amazing coastline and there are many, many beautiful spots along the way to enjoy it.  Along the highway we had also passed through beautiful coastal pastoral country as well.  A truly gorgeous part of W.A. 



The Old Jetty at Jurien Bay

 Jurien Bay was our destination though, so we couldn't dilly-dally too much...and what a gorgeous spot it is.  I am told that this area was once more populated, but a change in fishing regulations meant job losses.  The town hasn't let this bring them down:  I have never seen a town with more pride in how it looks.  Houses and gardens were well cared for, it has a wonderful foreshore walk and a fabulous, amazing playground right next to the jetty...so you can guess where the boys spent most of their time!  The other great thing about Jurien Bay is that it is within a short drive from The Pinnacles. 

These are made all the more fascinating by the fact that it is a bit of a scientific mystery as to how they were formed.  There are a couple of theories, but nobody knows for sure. We all enjoyed the very good Discovery Centre then walked and drove around the surprisingly large area of rock formations.  The boys and I played lots of games:  hide and seek, shops, dinosaur explorers...just to name a few; while Tony walked around with his camera.

At long last we headed for the City of Perth...well, the Swan Valley, which is just outside Perth. The Swan Valley is a feast for the senses: plenty of delicious food and wine to taste and smell; and green countryside, the Swan river and historic towns such as Guildford to admire.  For the ears:  sadly, there are planes flying overhead.  It is such a shame to have a flight path over such a beautiful area.  

While initially appalled at our run-down caravan park we have ended up quite enjoying it .  We are in a very handy spot for lots of activities, close to Midland for shopping and just down the road is beautiful Guildford (with the boy's favourite playground).  There are kangaroos, parrots and occasional visits from gorgeous blue wrens all right beside our caravan, as we seem to be next to a nature area.  And the showers are pretty bloody good!  So, first impressions can be wrong, it seems. 

We are pretty sure this is the female. (on our water pipe) 
There were two males seeking her affections!



This is literally a few steps from our van!  Great view!

 


If you can't beat them, join them:  the boys have become 'plane spotters'.


On Saturday, I met up with my beautiful cousin Martina, who now lives in Perth.  We spent the day being driven around the Swan Valley area, tasting delicious wines and eating delicious food.  What a tough day out that was, I was very early to bed that night!  It was absolutely wonderful to see Martina and for her to meet my family. 



Two very full and satisfied ladies. 

 On Sunday, I visited the Faber Vineyard, which is rated 5 stars by James Halliday and only open for tastings on Sundays.  It was a real highlight and I felt very honoured to meet the winemaker himself, John Griffiths, and thoroughly enjoyed tasting his reds.  I loved them all and couldn't choose so just had to buy a carton...but sadly, will have to wait till I get home in January to drink them as they have been sent home. Never fear, friends, I have bought some bottles while in Swan Valley, for drinking on the trip!
We then stopped in at Guildford, where there was a Family Fun Day as part of the 2011 Avon Descent.  We were able to see boats (paddled and motor) coming down the Swan River, and the boys were kept happy with music, a jumping castle, baby animals and lots more.  Doing this trip with younger children certainly allows us to see more of the family side of each place that we visit, as well as the touristy side. 

An absolutely enthralling percussion group - loved it!

Monday brought the day to put the car in to be serviced, and so a train trip in to the City.  The boys absolutely love train rides of all types, and it was great to see some more of Perth itself.  On TV that morning, I had seen an interview with some bakers who had been voted as having the best bakery in Australia...it was a french patisserie, and it was in Perth - so, we couldn't miss that!  We made use of the city's CAT (Central Area Transit) buses, which are free and take you around different spots in the city.  We made it there in time for morning tea and it was YUM!!  Jean Pierre Sancho Boulangerie Patisserie (I just LOVE saying that name) - you deserve to be called the best!


Chocolate cake, with a white chocolate covered cherry in the middle. 
Delicieux!

 It was (I have been told) typical Winter weather for Perth and so we had intermittent rain.  The sky was clear though, so we made our way to King's Park - and focused on the end with Stickybeaks Cafe and the playground for younger children.  It did rain on and off but the boys had a great time.  Sometimes it feels as if we are taking them on a tour of playgrounds in Australia, but they really love them! It seemed as if we weren't ever going to be able to drag them away...until we dangled the thought of books!  Off we traipsed to the State Library, which has a space set up for little ones, called The Place.  We had a rest on one of the couches and read about 20 books to the boys!  There were some activities available as well and it was a great way to while away some time.  Then it was back on the train and time to collect the car.  We will go into the city again, but with our car so it will be easier to tackle the massive King's Park. 

Tuesday we stayed closer to home, and went down the road to the Swan Valley shopfront of the Margaret River Chocolate Co.  The boys were fascinated to watch the chocolate being made.  Tony and I love our Dairy Milk chocolate and thought nothing could beat it...but this was delicious!  It is a pity it is a bit on the pricey side.  Nevermind, we enjoyed lots of free samples and bought a block to take away.  It was our intention to spend the afternoon at Whiteman Park, which has a number of transport exhibits as well as being the home of Caversham Wildlife Park...but the boys had better ideas.  They got busy building with boxes and didn't want to leave the caravan! 


The masterpieces..within an hour Matt's was trashed,
but Charlie's is still intact and is in the 'playroom' (other end of the caravan).
He says it is now an art gallery, so some of what
 he sees on the trip must be sinking in :)



Wednesday was absolutely perfect weather so we headed up to the Northern Beaches (in our opinion, the pick of Perth!) and visited the Aquarium of Western Australia, cleverly named AQWA.  This is much like Underwater World on the Sunshine Coast, but with more of a focus on marine animals indigenous to WA.  We all enjoyed it very much. 

Right before our eyes, this sting ray caught
a fish and gobbled it up!
Incredible! 

We enjoyed the area for a while and then headed further north to the Yanchep National Park area.  We stopped in at a lovely little town called Two Rocks where we met up with Lesley and Barry, who we had previously met on the road both at Point Samson and at Exmouth.  They are both keen kayakers and it is easy to see why as the area is perfectly suited to the hobby.  We enjoyed catching up with them and look forward to seeing them when they make it as far as the East Coast one day. 


King Neptune, who guards a once famous
aquarium and water park at Two Rocks.  Sadly, it has been closed
for many years now. 

 This was not to be the end of our socialising though, as we headed back to Swan Valley in order to make our home cooked dinner date with Julia and Mike, who had been our neighbours in Dampier.  We all enjoyed a delicious meal and wonderful company and look forward to returning the hospitality when they also travel to the East Coast...hopefully we are going to have lots of visitors after we get home!  It will help keep our trip of a lifetime real and not let it become a distant memory. 



Matt having a 'bedtime' story from Mike.
It was such a great night!

A wee bit weary despite a sleep in, we headed into the City Thursday morning to once again tackle the enormous King's Park, this time with a car.  This made it so much easier and we were able to take the boys to the Synergy Parkland at the back of the Park.  This is dinosaur themed and was a real hit with the boys.  The beautiful environment and perfect weather allowed us all to have a great  romp, followed by a picnic at the Lookout side, overlooking the City. 



Then it was on to Fremantle, where Tony and Charlie attempted to tour the submarine at the Maritime Museum, but were told that Charlie was too little.  Very sad.  We then noticed the Walls all around the museum that have the names of all migrants who came in to Australia at Fremantle - and found Tony's paternal grandparents recorded.  It is a really great idea to record all the names and details for family members to come and see in years to come. 

  
A massive container ship came into Port while we were there as well, complete with tug boat...which almost took the edge off missing out on the submarine, for Charlie. 

To end our time in Perth, we enjoyed another serendipitous meeting with a friend...Roxy and her family were in Perth for a few days only, and we were both to be in Fremantle at the same time!  Roxy is a friend made in Rocky, who now lives in Brisbane, which makes it all the more amazing that we should be in the same place at the same time!  Say what you like about Facebook, but it has certainly led to some wonderful encounters with friends and family whilst on this trip!  We all enjoyed a drink at the Little Creatures Brewery while our boys and Roxy's son, Xavier, played in the sandpit provided just so parents can do exactly that!  Great idea, Little Creatures!!  I enjoyed a cuddle with new baby Griffin; what a wonderful and unexpected opportunity to meet their new gorgeous little man. 

Tomorrow we head for Busselton, and begin our exploration of the South-West.  I have promised not to buy a carton of wine in Margaret River...but that doesn't stop me from tasting!!  Until next time, cheers from all of us!